Mycoplasma in chickens

Having lost one of my Exchequer Leghorn hens last week to this horrible disease I decided to do a bit of research.

I noticed that said hen had developed an abscess on the side of her face just under her eye, which had caused her eye to close completely, and was utterly blind on that side.  I left her for a few days to see if it would clear up of its own accord, but come Monday it hadn't got any better so sought veterinary help.

An injection of antibiotics was given and another appointment booked for three days after.  It was on the second visit that I was given the bad news.

'It's a highly contagious disease,' the vet said, 'one that if the hen gets over it, will cause her to be a carrier of the disease for the rest of her life and then obviously infect the rest of your flock.  The hen will not be as strong and fit and she was previously, considerably a poor doer, and therefore may not lay any eggs.  I think the only cause of treatment would be to euthanaise. Sorry!' he said.

Well I was stunned as you can imagine and came away from the vets with a doomed chicken in my cat basket.

I pondered the pros and cons all afternoon, until Hubby came home and we discussed it.  The outcome being that it would be no life for her if she was 'not quite right' for the rest of her days, and I didn't want to risk the health of the rest of the flock.  So unfortunately she was put down.

The disease is one that affects the respiratory tract and immune system, swollen sinuses are typical of the disease - see pic below.  It can also affect the kidneys.

Not very attractive, I think you'l agree.

The disease affects chickens, ducks, turkeys and wild birds, so take care if wild birds can get access to your drinkers, feeders etc as the disease can also last on these implements for a couple of hours too.  Stress i.e. moving birds into the flock, new housing, weather changes, changes in diet, is a major factor in this disease erupting.

Basic hygiene and welfare standards are paramount in the control of this disease.  Vaccination is possible, but only available in large doses, so would be expensive.  Veterinary treatment with antibiotics is possible, but with the outcome as described above.

A sad day, but everyone else (touching wood), is fine.

Stats today -
Sales = 1/2 dozen eggs £1.00
1 bunch of Daffodils £0.50
Expenses = nil
Eggs produced = 5

Compost

Over the last few days I have been sorting out my compost heaps, a job that here has never really been bothered with much.  Sounds crazy I know, considering the amount of plant material that is produced here, especially as I like to follow organic principles as far as I can.

Which got me to thinking - What actually is Compost?

I tested the internet with exactly that question and the first answer courtesy of Google was (and I'm quoting here),
'noun - decayed organic material used as a fertiliser for growing plants',
(read organic pertaining to once living, not as in the application/undertaking of organic farming principles)

'verb - make (vegetable matter or manure) into compost'

OK, so reading between the lines of those two statements, compost is the effect of decay on plant material and manure, which turns said material into a highly nutritious source of food for currently growing plants.

That sounds pretty darn good to me, free fertiliser that will help my existing plants grow big, strong and healthy.

According to www.bonnieplants.com and again I'm quoting here -
'Composting transforms garden and other vegetable waste into a dark, rich productive soil amendment the gardeners call Black Gold'

So in a way not only is it a form of fertliser/soil conditioner, it is a form of recycling too, and once said compost is incorporated into the soil it immediately improves the condition of that soil - making heavy soils easier to work - loosening them off and giving light soils better water retentive capabilities.  All round giving the plants better access to nutrients, therefore increasing the productivity of the soil.  WOW!

So, having turned all three bins, emptying one completely onto the manure pile I noticed that none of my resulting 'compost' looked like 'Black Gold'!  One was particularly dry, one particularly wet and the other wasn't too bad, although not quite decomposed enough.  More trial and research needed methinks!

First one emptied straight onto the manure pile, and yes I had help!

The other two still to go

The one that I thought didn't look too bad after turning

As above, but needs a bit longer I think

Chicken hut considerations - Part One

Now I love a good chicken hut; drool over them; dream about what I could put in them and relish in its construction and amenities - ventilation, nesting boxes, perches, runs etc, (sad I know), but I was shocked to see the sheer vast array on offer these days.

In the current (September) edition of Country Smallholding magazine, Poultry section there is a feature on housing.  The diversity of houses from construction firms is phenomenal.  Construction materials include a rigid hard plastic; one made from something described as non-absorbent materials; 100% UK recycled plastic; but the majority are still made from (my favourite) treated timber.  There's something about a well constructed chicken hut made from wood and stained a dark colour that really get's me excited (little things, I know!).

In the magazine there are over a dozen companies advertising their huts, the styles and designs are many and varied.  Which got me to thinking (Oh no, I hear you groan!), what are the essentials for chickens welfare in housing?  I looked up the Poultry Club of Great Britain's website, they being the doyenne of all things poultry and came up with the following -

1.  Ventilation - adequate enough to stop the build up of condensation and therefore bacteria and should be located towards the top of the house to ensure the birds have no draughts coming up from underneath.
2.  Window - usually covered in mesh, glass is not safe, it can break.  The window is to assist with egg laying, letting more light in; the lengthening daylight hours increase egg production.
3.  Space per bird - Large birds need 30sq cm each, bantams a little less (doesn't seem very much to me, but I suppose that's the minimum).  If you suffer from really bad weather it would be best to allow them more, especially if they use it to shelter from the weather.
4.  Perches - ideally 5cm wide with rounded edges (also see the above edition of Country Smallholding magazine, there is an excellent article on a trial done on perches, makes for interesting reading).
5.  Pophole - this is the chickens access door.  Complete with an actual door which is closable at night for security purposes.  I notice in some Chicken magazines that there are adverts for door timers these days too - the height of laziness!
6.  Some larger form of door / take out panel for ease of cleaning the hut.
7.  Nest boxes - should be located at the darkest and therefore the lowest part of the house.  They usually look like an add on, onto the side of the house.  Each box should be up to 30sq cm, and one box will service every four hens.  I do find that most of my hens tend to prefer only one or two of the boxes, the others used for sleeping in!

Tomorrow I will look at runs, bedding, different styles of hut etc - watch this space!

Be interested to see/hear of your views on these designs, especially the new style ones.

Stats today -

Eggs produced = 11

Sales -
1 dozen eggs

Expenses -
Nil